Arriving in Champagne by TGV from Paris, the only two short stops the train makes before reaching the heart of Epernay are at Château-Thierry and Dormans. Gazing out of the window, the thirsty explorer is treated to the spectacle of the Champagne Vallée de la Marne region. On both banks of the Marne, the leitmotif is a continuous succession of rows of vines, marking the slow progress of the river on both the right and left bank along the route that links Château-Thierry to Epernay (and backwards). These vineyards are the symbol of a revenge - that which Meunier, a variety often “ignored” in the noble trio that gives Champagne its most traditional form, takes over Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. But don’t be fooled: Champagnes from Vallée de la Marne go far beyond the “miller’s Pinot”, of which this area is the land of choice.

Vallée de la Marne, the excellences to discover

The Lallier Champagne Extra Brut Les Sous, which has its roots in the only Grand Cru village in the Champagne Vallée de la Marne - Aÿ, is its first explanation. When talking about Blanc de Noirs, it is the Pinot Noir of a single lieu-dit (“Les Sous” as clearly indicated on the label) to enter the scene, releasing all the freshness of the terroir only in small quantities. The Gaston Chiquet Champagne Blanc de Blancs d’Aÿ shares its birthplace but is opposed to the previous one in terms of colour: a singular cuvée from white grapes in Grand Cru of black grapes. It is a pure Chardonnay of extreme finesse that the Chiquet family produces, reaffirming once again the innovative character that already belonged to Fernand and Gaston, the pioneers who invented the “profession” of the Vigneron in 1919. Back to Pinot Noir with Antoine Bouvet Champagne Extra Brut Les Monts de la Vallée: in the few kilometres that separate Mareuil-sur-Aÿ from Avenay Val d'Or, the Champagne from Vallée de la Marne is almost fading away in the direction and features of the Montagne de Reims. There, on the borderline between two suitable terroirs, it is the young hand behind the bottle that strongly reaffirms its uniqueness, under the banner of pleasantness in the glass, limited quantities for each cuvée, and as little intervention as possible, both in the vineyard and in the cellar.

A similar natural inclination can be found in Laurent Bénard Champagne Extra Brut Vibratis: still grown in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, but this time with a blend of the three varieties. New perspectives, imperishable values. But above all, zero sulphites and 100% terroir from four lieux-dits selected for their strong mineral content. Another small Maison coming from a tradition of nine generations owns seven hectares of land in seven villages: the voice of Pinot Noir from Cumières resounds with vibrant force in the composition of Vadin-Plateau Champagne Brut Nature Bois des Jots, an expressive tale of Champagne Vallée de la Marne in just 500 numbered bottles. Yves Ruffin’s Champagne Cuvée Thierry Ruffin 2006 is the last but not least important label in this parade and also comes from a small production: a tribute to the reserved character of a farmer with a curious eye and an innovative soul, a portrait of colours and flavours of the lands whose myth is carried far away by the Marne River.

The best selection of Champagnes from Vallée de la Marne from GLUGULP! is just a click away.