Pick up a group of friends, 8 blind labels and you're done.
The fil rouge of the tasting? The Chardonnay from different areas of Champagne (and not only) declined in its many facets.
Among the wines for tasting, there is a Côteaux Champenois, a "pirate" wine which however has something in common with Champagne and a "missile" wine, a legendary and prestigious Champagne, synonymous of absolute excellence.
Who are we talking about? If you are curious, we recommend reading to the end.
1. Champagne Extra Brut Les Gras d'Huile, Oudiette
We immediately had a great start with this Blanc de Blancs made from Chardonnay grapes from 5 different vintages: 72% from the 2019 vintage, 32% from the 2018, 2017, 2016 and 2015 harvests. The grapes harvested come from the homonymous Lieu-Dit, Les Gras d' Huile, owned by Domaine Oudiette and planted in 1993 near the village of Beaunay in the Côteaux Du Petit Morin. Vinification and aging in small barrels of the Tonnellerie de Champagne, over 24 months on its yeasts and final dosage of only 1 g/l. Dégorgement 07/2022. A full, intense Champagne, a very elegant minerality both on the nose and on the palate; a Champagne that amazed us with its depth and persistence.
2. Champagne Extra Brut Champ Viole, Pierre Gerbais
Champ Viole is a Lieu-Dit in the village of Celles-sur-Ource, a historic vineyard planted on the hillside with southern exposure. The terroir here is unique, a Kimmeridgian soil composed of fossil-rich marl and limestone, which looks like more that of Chablis and Sancerre rather than the chalky soils of the northern Champagne region. Vinification in stainless steel tanks and subsequent assembly with vin de réserve perpétuelle from 2011 to 2018, aging for 36 months on its yeasts and final dosage of 3 g/l. Dégorgement 04/2022. Fine and elegant, the Champ Viole Champagne proved to be a little shy at the beginning, with a predominance of fresh fruit and vegetable notes that concealed a slightly muffled nose. When tasted, the palate was fresh, sapid, and the tantalizing acidity, accompanied by notes of exotic fruit made it decidedly appetizing. An overall harmonious and inviting Champagne which however has been somewhat obscured by the important olfactory and gustatory structure of the previous Champagne.
3. Champagne Extra Brut Epinette de Champagne, Maurice Choppin
Champagne Epinette de Champagne is a wine that surprised us, especially when compared to the more well-known and high-sounding names. We are in Damery, in the Vallée de la Marne and Benjamn Choppin, son of Maurice and last of seven generations, is one of those young Vignerons who pushes to produce identity wines, with an authentic personality. Spontaneous fermentations, use of indigenous yeasts, minimal interventions (no filtrations and clarifications), use of tonneaux and barriques in the cellar, are all choices that are reflected in his Champagnes, which are reaching well-defined stylistic traits. Champagne Epinette de Champagne, result of the 2017 harvest, ages in 500-litre oak barrels for at least 36 months; dosage in 3g/l and dégorgement 04/2021. Elegant tertiary aromas are distinguished on the nose, accompanied by light aromas typical of roasting; the palate is round, fresh and creamy, satisfying. Worth a try, especially for those who don't know it yet.
4. Côteaux Champenois Blanc "Coteaux 2019", Vincey
It’s the turn of the Côteaux Champenois, the only still wine among all the bubbles of the evening, always 100% Chardonnay. Harvest 2019, Côteaux Champenois Blanc Coteaux 2019 of Domaine Vincey presented itself as a very elegant wine with incredible finesse, perfectly balanced between minerality and toasting, resulting from the use of wood in aging. In fact, the vinification and aging of the wine is done for about 27 months in oak barrels before bottling in December 2021. A fresh and vibrant wine, with a light saline and spicy touch. To be savored without haste.
5. Franciacorta Extra Brut Dequinque Cuvée 15 vendemmie, Uberti
And here is the “pirate” wine, the intruder, a Franciacorta alongside many Champagnes. An interesting wine that amazed us, especially for its particular aromatic profile. Extraordinary Franciacorta, expressive synthesis of the becoming that becomes memory: it is the genesis of a cuvée of 15 vintages of the best Chardonnay grapes from 2002 to 2016, a perpetual reserve in a single vat. Over 60 months on the yeasts, dégorgement in September 2022 and 2g/l dosage, the result is exceptional, an astonishing wine of great charm. Deep and intense, pungent nose of graphite, flint, and gunpowder, accompanied by iodized and mineral notes, and persuasive interweaving of citrus and toasted hazelnuts with balsamic hints in the background. The palate is of great structure and complexity, pleasant freshness and flavor, a finish with a long mineral trail. A wine that has certainly expanded the classic aromatic framework to which we are generally used to.
6. Champagne Extra Brut Le Couchant 2017, Laurent Lépitre
Then we returned to Champagne, curious to find out what the 6th wine for tasting would have in store for us. We restarted with Laurent Lépitre, a young Vigneron heir to a family tradition spanning over a century in Coulommes-la-Montagne, in the Petite Montagne de Reims. A Blanc de Blancs from grapes from Lieu-dit "Le Couchant" vineyards, grown according to the principles of biodynamic agriculture on a hill with western exposure on clay-limestone soils. The producer's idea of creating an authentic Champagne, an original expression of the terroir was not disregarded: Le Couchant Champagne stood out for its ample bouquet with citrus, mineral and increasingly spicy notes of pepper, gingerbread, and tobacco. The full-bodied structure of the wine combines with freshness and delicate minerality on the palate, an elegant, enveloping Champagne which perhaps at first glance may be a little slower than the olfactory and gustatory power of the previous wine, but these are the rules of the game of tasting. That's why we promised ourselves a second taste because Le Couchant is the typical Champagne that makes you want to drink it again and again. Millésime 2017, vinifies and ages in 228L barrels for at least 10 months, spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts and minimal interventions in the cellar; disgorgement in December 2021 and dosage 2 g/l.
7. Champagne Extra Brut Chemin de Châlons 2018, La Rogerie
Tasting after tasting it has been a sparkle of sensations and emotions, and, conquered by a whirlwind of surprising scents and aromas, we have reached the 7th and penultimate Champagne for tasting: the Champagne Chemin de Châlons 2018 by Domaine La Rogerie.
Is it the "missile"? We immediately tell you, he's not, and you'll understand why.
Let's start from its origins: a Blanc de Blancs resulting from the blending of Chardonnay grapes from the 2018 harvest from two parcels planted in 1959 and 1937, respectively in Avize and Cramant of only 0.32 hectares. The Domaine today is led by Justine Boxler e François Petit, who encourage the natural growth and development of organic biodiversity in the vineyards, with the aim of showing the purest form of terroir in their wines. In the cellar, spontaneous fermentation in barrique, no filtration or clarification, minimal dosages. These two young Vignerons with their new Champagnes embody the transition from tradition to modernity, which is in fact a return to the origins. Champagne Chemin de Châlons is an intense and full-bodied wine, with citrus, fragrant and mineral notes that stand out on the nose. The palate with mineral traits is sapid, enveloping, with a nice acidity and a long finish. A Champagne with a precise and profound style, which excites, which gives and will give great satisfaction.
8. Champagne Extra Brut V.O., Jacques Selosse
Here is the “missile” revealed. We still didn't know that it was the great Selosse and already at the sight we understood that this Champagne had a lot to say, and that those intense golden almost orange nuances foreshadowed a Champagne with a wonderful structure. Domaine Jacques Selosse doesn't need great presentations, it's that name that excites every enthusiast, a myth, and the undisputed reference point for viticulture in Champagne. Its style is unique, as are its Champagnes, result of the interpretation and great personality of Anselme Selosse, who has led the company since 1974 and has now left the helm to his son Guillaume, who in the wake of his father is giving an original and exclusive identity to his wines. We are in Avize, Grand Cru of the Côte des Blancs where the famous "craie" returns Chardonnay to the highest levels of expressiveness. Champagne V.O. (Version Originale) is the result of the blending of three vintages, 2014, 2013 and 2012 from vineyards of the Grand Crus of Avize, Cramant and Oger and is characterized by a long aging on the yeasts. A complex and refined Champagne, on the nose the aromas are intense with a citrus and calcareous / chalky note, with well-balanced toasted hints on the finish. The palate is of great structure and cleanliness, fresh, sapid, almost dry. This Champagne fully expresses the idea of authenticity, out of any standardized scheme.
We are ready to organize another tasting! And you? Stay tuned!
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